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Butcher Block / Microwave Table

June 19, 2026 by
Butcher Block / Microwave Table
Unleap, Nazareno Guzman [Unleap]

Here’s the perfect opportunity for you to exercise your design creativity!

Just a generation or so ago, butcher blocks were as common in kitchens as ice boxes and wood- fired stoves. But, in the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s, modern kitchens started to get smaller. Out of necessity, these big, bulky blocks were replaced by space-saving, countertop cutting boards. And although today’s newer homes seem to be getting larger and larger (many have kitchens with enough space to park the family sport utility vehicle), there are still a lot of folks living in older homes with limited space. If this describes your kitchen, this special Table is for you.

The simple design of this Table returns the classic butcher block to the kitchen…and gives today’s most common, high-tech appliance — the microwave oven — a convenient, out-of-the-way place of its own. Or, if you prefer, you can build your table with our “storage option” which includes a slide-out drawer and “cubbyholes” for cookbooks, dishes, small appliances, etc.

Add casters to create a convenient, portable cutting surface, extra counter space or even a roll-around patio barbecue cart. Double or triple the size of the top and add an extra set of center support legs to turn it into a garden cart or even an extra workbench for the shop. The modifications and applications are limited only by your imagination.

Getting Started

The lumber requirements for the project as shown here include 11′-6″ of 2″ x 2″ stock, 27 board feet of 3/4″ thick stock and another 27 board feet of 1/4″ thick plywood. If you’ve decided to make the storage unit that sits in the microwave area on the lower shelf, you’ll also need a half-sheet of 1/2″ thick plywood. Start by cutting all your stock to size. The 2×2’s (actually 1-3/4″ x 1-3/4″) should be cut to exact length, while all the 3/4″ stock should be cut 1/16″ over actual width, then jointed to their exact width. The stock for the sides and back of the drawer should be resawed on the bandsaw, then jointed or planed to the final 1/2″ thickness. With the stock at its finished thickness and width, all the pieces should be crosscut to their finished length.

NOTE: Since all microwave ovens are not the same size, be sure to measure your oven, check it against the measurements included here and alter the sizes of any pieces as required to accommodate the oven.

The Leg and Rail Assembly

Before cutting the legs (A), decide whether or not you want to add casters to make your Table mobile. If so, be sure to make the legs 2″ shorter than called for in the plans or your table will be too high…then drill a hole in the bottom of each leg to receive the caster shaft or its drive-in, metal “receiver”.

Next, drill and counterbore the holes in the legs (A) for the screw shanks where the top & bottom side rails (B,C) top & bottom front and back rails (E, F) and shelf (G) attach to them. NOTE: If you’re making the stand to hold a microwave oven, be sure to position the lower shelf (G) 4″ lower than indicated in the plan to accommodate the height of the oven. Again, be sure to measure your oven before deciding where to position the shelf.

If you’re making the table with a lower storage unit instead, be sure to attach the two drawer guide strips (D) to the top side rails (B) with counterbored wood screws before putting the two leg assemblies together. See the drawer guide detail drawing.

Use a 1/8″ drill to bore screw pilot holes in the ends of all rails (B,C,E,F) and assemble the side rails (B,C) to the legs (A) using 1-3/4″ #8 flathead wood screws (Y). Cover the screw heads with dowel buttons or plugs (Z).

The Base Assembly

Put the base assembly together by connecting the two leg & rail assemblies with the top back (E) and bottom front & back (F) rails, using 1-3/4″ #8 flathead wood screws. As before, cover the screw heads with glue-in dowel buttons or plugs.

Build the shelf (G) by gluing individual pieces of 3/4″ stock edge-to-edge to create a piece that’s 22″ x 27-3/4″. Once the glue has dried, hand sand or belt sand the shelf to a smooth surface, then notch-out the corners of the shelf to fit snugly inside your legs, resting on top of the lower side (C) and lower front and back (F) rails. Position the shelf (G) on top of these rails (C,F) and use a 1/8″ bit to drill the screw pilot holes in the edges of the shelf (G).

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