This great Patio Table solves the age-old off season storage problem, once and for all!

The simple act of storing your patio furniture away during the Winter, off-season months can easily turn a roomy garage or basement into a real “clutter-center”, leaving little room for your cars or other belongings. One answer to the problem is this clever Knock-Down-&-Store-Away Patio Table. Not only does it provide plenty of sturdy space for entertaining while in use, it also disassembles in a couple of minutes, then stores neatly away in a minimal amount of space

We built our example from top-grade 2×4’s and pine boards, then stained it to a rich, dark color. However, it could just as easily be made from Western Red Cedar or Redwood…which are attractive and remain unaffected by the weather…from teak, which is also impervious to the weather, yet quite costly….or from virtually any wood you like.

Our example is 42″ square when assembled. If your is a larger family and you require more space, just alter the dimensions to suit your needs.

LIST OF MATERIALS

(finished dimensions in inches)

Leg Sets (make two)

A

Foot (2)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 60

B

Leg Brace (4)

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 25

C

Leg (4)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 26-1/2

D

Upper Brace (4)

3/4 x 2-1/2 x 49-5/8

E

Spacer (4)

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 2-1/2

F

Post Holder (1)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 3-1/4

Top Assembly (make one)

G

Top Skirt (4)

3/4 x 5-1/4 x 42

H

Top Slat (4)

3/4 x 2-5/8 x 40-1/2

J

Long Cleat (4)

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 37

K

Slat Brace (2)

1-1/2 x 3-1/4 x 40-1/2

L

Corner Blocks (4)

3-1/4 x 3-1/4 x 9

Hardware

(4) 3/8″ – 16 x 4″ Hanger Bolts

(4) 3/8″ I.D. Flat Washers

(4) 3/8″ – 16 Hex Nuts (or Wing Nuts)

(152) #6 x 2″ Wood Screws

(20) #8 x 1-1/2″ Wood Screws

(16) #8 x 2″ Wood Screws

(24) #8 x 2-1/4″ Wood Screws

Sawing and Construction

Start by cutting all pieces to size, according to the Bill of Materials. Next, saw the 45-degree bevels on the ends of the Top Skirt (G), Feet (A) and Leg Braces (B). Use your Disc Sander to remove all saw marks from the ends of these pieces.

Set-up your Table Saw for Dadoing and adjust your Blades to make a 3/4″ wide cut. Saw the notches in the Feet (A) and Upper Braces (D).

Lay out and drill the 7/16″ holes in the tops of the Legs (C) according to the LEG SLOT LAYOUT drawing. These holes will form the bottoms of the slots that will slip over the corner hanger bolts during assembly. We’ll finish the slots later with the Bandsaw. Use a hole saw to drill the 1-1/2″ diameter post holes (to match the diameter of your umbrella post) in the center Top Slat (H) and the Post Holder (F).

Tilt your Drill Press Table to 45-degrees and mount your Rip Fence on the Table to form a V-Block drilling set-up (see the Drill Press chapter in your “Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone” text). Be sure to use equal thickness scrap blocks to keep from drilling into the Table surface and the face of your Rip Fence during this process. Center the tip of your 1/4″ Brad Point Drill Bit over the “V” where your scrap blocks intersect. Drop your chunk of Corner Block stock (L) into this “V” and drill a 1/4″ through-hole diagonally, 2-1/4″ down from each end of your stock (see photo 4).